This D.C. Levantine Cafe Puts Shakshuka Inside a Croissant, and It Works

A Michelin Bib Gourmand Levantine cafe in Washington, D.C. is doing things with croissants and bagels that most breakfast spots have never considered. Food creator Jeremy Jacobowitz returned to Chef Michael Rafidi's spot after a first visit that left a strong enough impression to pull him back, and the second round delivered even harder.

The Croissant Display

The bakery case tells the story before you order. Rows of dark, deeply laminated croissants sit behind glass, labeled with flavors like za'atar, orange blossom, and gouda cheese. These are not pale, underworked pastries. They have the deep caramel color and visible flaky layers that come from proper butter lamination and confident baking.

Yellow Spro

The drink order was a "Yellow Spro," a rotating espresso drink that on this visit combined tonic water, two shots of espresso, and cardamom pear. The drink came in a short glass with a golden, foamy top. Jacobowitz called it the first tonic-based drink he has ever enjoyed, noting its weight and depth compared to the usual thin, bitter tonic preparations.

Shakshuka Croissant

The star of the meal was a jammy egg shakshuka croissant with smoked feta and harissa oil. The croissant was split open to reveal a bright red shakshuka filling with a soft-set egg nestled in the center, topped with crumbled white feta and a few herb leaves. The shell held its structure while Jacobowitz bit into it, flaking apart in visible layers. He described it as both deeply savory (from the feta and harissa) and carrying a subtle sweetness from the pastry itself. His assessment was direct: possibly the best croissant he has ever eaten. He argued that more restaurants should attempt a shakshuka croissant, which is a fair point given how well the combination works here.

Egg Bagel with Green Shakshuka and Labneh

The second dish was an everything-seasoned egg bagel filled with soft scrambled eggs, kashkaval cheese, green shakshuka, labneh, and optional kefta. The bagel was dense and loaded, with the soft scramble visible in the cross-section and pickled onions tucked in for acidity. Jacobowitz added the kefta but said in hindsight it was unnecessary. The labneh and green shakshuka carried the sandwich on their own. The pickled onions did the work of cutting through the richness of the cheese and eggs.

Key Takeaways

• Chef Michael Rafidi's Levantine cafe in D.C. holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and specializes in Middle Eastern-inflected pastries and breakfast items.
• The shakshuka croissant (jammy egg, smoked feta, harissa oil) pairs a well-executed laminated pastry with a bold, savory filling.
• The egg bagel with green shakshuka and labneh stands on its own without the kefta add-on.
• The cardamom pear Yellow Spro is a tonic-espresso drink worth trying for people who normally dislike tonic.
• Jacobowitz's petition to bring this concept to New York City suggests the kind of gap the NYC breakfast scene has for this style of Levantine baking.